Puppy Socialization Do's and Don'ts
Socialization and puppy training are of utmost importance as puppyhood is the most important and critical time in your dog's development. What you do and do not do right now will affect your dog's behavior forever.
Puppy Socialization
A properly socialized dog is well adjusted and makes a good companion. It is neither frightened by nor aggressive towards anyone or anything it would normally meet in day to day living. An un-socialized dog is untrustworthy and an unwanted liability. They often become fear-biters. Often they like to fight with other dogs. They are difficult to train and are generally unpleasant to be around. Unsocialized dogs cannot adapt to new situations and a simple routine visit to the vet is a nightmare not only for the dog itself, but for everyone involved. Don't let this happen to you and your dog. Start socializing your new puppy NOW! The Cornell University College of Veterinary Medicine agrees that the socialization period lasts up to about 12 weeks (3 months) of age. However, at 12 weeks, the puppy must continue socialization to refine its social skills. Socialization most easily occurs before the puppy is 3 months old. Any later than that and it becomes an excruciatingly difficult and time-consuming process that very few owners have the time, energy, money or patience to cope with.
Socialization Do's
Make sure that each of the following events are pleasant and non-threatening. If your puppy's first experience with something is painful and frightening, you will be defeating your purpose. In fact, you will be creating a phobia that will often last a lifetime. It's better to go too slow and assure your puppy is not frightened or injured than to rush and force your pup to meet new things and people.
-Invite friends over to meet your pup. Include men, women, youngsters, oldsters, different ethnic backgrounds, etc.
-Invite friendly, healthy, vaccinated dogs, puppies and even cats to your home to meet and play with your new puppy. Take your puppy to the homes of these pets, preferably with dog-friendly cats.
-Carry your pup to shopping centers, parks, school playgrounds, etc; places where there are crowds of people and plenty of activity.
-Take your puppy for short, frequent rides in the car. Stop the car and let your puppy watch the world go by through the window.
-Introduce your puppy to umbrellas, bags, boxes, the vacuum cleaner, etc. Encourage your puppy to explore and investigate his environment.
-Get your puppy accustomed to seeing different and unfamiliar objects by creating your own. Set a chair upside down. Lay the trash can (empty) on its side, set up the ironing board right-side up one day and upside down the next day.
-Introduce your puppy to new and various sounds. Loud, obnoxious sounds should be introduced from a distance and gradually brought closer.
-Accustom your puppy to being brushed, bathed, inspected, having its nails clipped, teeth and ears cleaned and all the routines of grooming and physical examination.
-Introduce your puppy to stairs, his own collar and leash. Introduce anything and everything you want your puppy to be comfortable with and around.
Socialization Don'ts
-Do not put your puppy on the ground where unknown animals have access. This is where your puppy can pick up diseases. Wait until your puppy's shots are completed. Do not let your pup socialize with dogs that appear sick or dogs that you don't know, that may not be vaccinated.
-Do not reward fearful behavior. In a well meaning attempt to sooth, encourage or calm the puppy when it appears frightened, we often unintentionally reward the behavior. It's normal for the puppy to show some signs of apprehension when confronting anything new and different.
-Do not allow the experience to be harmful, painful or excessively frightening. This can cause lifetime phobias in your dog.
-Do not force or rush your puppy. Let your puppy take things at his own pace. Your job is to provide the opportunity.
-Do not do too much at one time. Young puppies need a lot of sleep and tire quickly. It is much more productive to have frequent and very brief exposures than occasional prolonged exposures.
-DO NOT WAIT!! Every day that goes by is an opportunity of a lifetime that is lost forever. You can never get these days back. If socialization does not happen now, it never will.
Credits.... http://www.perfectpaws.com
Full Version: Socialization Tips and Puppy Training Pointers
koolies - Coolies, One of the friendliest places on the Net... > Noah's Ark > Puppy Behavior,Training and Socialization
Good advice. 
I guess this point is implied, but rewarding calm behaviour is one of the things I think a lot of owners could do more of when raising a pup. As any rewarded behaviour will tend to occur more frequently in the future, and most of us want our dog as an adult to be generally relaxed and laid back, rather than restless/jittery/noisy/pushy, it makes sense to (calmly) reward our dogs (with food, social contact, play, and whatever else they like) when they are doing nothing or quietly, gently playing with their toys, or looking at the world with calm interest, or playing politely with us or other dogs right from babyhood. It's easy to ignore them when they're being 'good', and interact with them when they're being 'bad', even when we know that doing the opposite will have a better impact on their behaviour.
Libby
I guess this point is implied, but rewarding calm behaviour is one of the things I think a lot of owners could do more of when raising a pup. As any rewarded behaviour will tend to occur more frequently in the future, and most of us want our dog as an adult to be generally relaxed and laid back, rather than restless/jittery/noisy/pushy, it makes sense to (calmly) reward our dogs (with food, social contact, play, and whatever else they like) when they are doing nothing or quietly, gently playing with their toys, or looking at the world with calm interest, or playing politely with us or other dogs right from babyhood. It's easy to ignore them when they're being 'good', and interact with them when they're being 'bad', even when we know that doing the opposite will have a better impact on their behaviour.
Libby
Everyone,As I read the various posts along with some interesting perspectives in so called scholarly reviews in some of the scientific rags... I am reminded of a term popular stateside and it seems to be the trend within the pet loving community in California... is the term pet parenting also in vogue Down Under? That is when pets take on the human personna and are referred to as one's son or daughter and the pet owner as daddy and mommie:)?
Cheers!
Hi Folks:I have to agree,
QUOTE
I've never seen an agressive Koolie.
.It's true that in all the time that I have been rescueing someone elses Koolie's I have never recieved an agressive one, and some have been through hell.
When first researching the Koolie we placed a girl from our first litter out with the pack and had very little to do with her, the only time she saw us was when she was let off her run in the morning and put back on in the evening, no socializing at all.
The rest of the litter were taken around the trials, met other people, animals and stock, learned commands for work and how to travel in a vehicle and became great companions.
That litter is five years old now and no one can tell her from the others, the only difference is she is needy, wants to be with you all the time, I don't see that as a bad thing.
She has just had her first litter, and is the perfect mother, and welcomes the attention recieved from visitors, who come to see her pups.
I believe the Koolie personality is what sets this breed apart from other breeds and makes it sought after.
Socializing is important and exposing your pup to as many varied differences will only strengthen it.
Touch wood we have always recieved pleaseant surprised praise from new owners of Tjukurpa pups as to how calm, confident and steady they are and we do socialize and travel with them as pups as early as four weeks but we are lucky, as Obedience Judges we have a ready made safe enviroment for which to insure our pups get the best beginnings.
The rescue Koolie still show great attitude, personality, steadiness and gentleness and some have been no older than 8 weeks when they have arrived, others as old as ten.
They have possibly been in multiple pounds, or rescue homes as they have made their way down to our facilities, they have been passed from stranger to stranger which would I believe test anyones metal.
And so far all Koolie that have reached us have all been easy to re-home, we are sent letters from all over Australia praising the Koolie and its temperment and ability.
I guess when your starting with a solid sound breed such as the Koolie you only need to be patient in your approach and let nature take her course.
Hi All,
In the behavoural development of a dog the most important time is 3 - 12 weeks in behavioural terms this is called the the 'critical period'. This is when the socialisation is so important.
Those of that have never had a problem with your pups are basically socalising them for the life the lead. A pup living on a farm with other dogs, spends it's 'critial period' meeting other dogs, touching grass, hearing normal rural noises etc. these are all new and novel to the puppy so they develop normally, without you really thinking about it. This is a great way to raise a great dog.
BUT, the problems begin when the pup is taken away from a normal social environment to be a pet and not 'socialised' by it's new owner. The biggest reason for dogs to be PTS at the shelter is 'aggression due to lack of socilisation'. Often the dogs that are actually abused cope better than these undersocalised dogs becuase because even though they were not cared for they have experianced socalisation during the 3 -12 week period.
My Koolie Wiz, was isolated during the 'critical period' and I tell you it has been a bloody nightmare! Her and her litter mates were sold "from a farm" to Pets Paradise. They were about 4 weeks old when they arrived and spent the majority of their critical period in a glass cage in the basement of a shopping mall. Novel experiances? Nill.
Wiz is now four and over the last year has really started coping with the world, but for most of her life any thing new or different has been difficult to cope with. A motorbike on the footpath, a paper bag blown up agaist a fence, a windy day and worst of all children. She was absolutely terrified of kids and even now I would still never let a child pat her.
My other dog Floyd was a stray picked up off a busy Melbourne street at about 10 weeks old. His whole life to that point was 'novel experiances' and he is bullet proof, loves everything and everyone.
Socalisation is just so important in the development of a dog
Vix
In the behavoural development of a dog the most important time is 3 - 12 weeks in behavioural terms this is called the the 'critical period'. This is when the socialisation is so important.
Those of that have never had a problem with your pups are basically socalising them for the life the lead. A pup living on a farm with other dogs, spends it's 'critial period' meeting other dogs, touching grass, hearing normal rural noises etc. these are all new and novel to the puppy so they develop normally, without you really thinking about it. This is a great way to raise a great dog.
BUT, the problems begin when the pup is taken away from a normal social environment to be a pet and not 'socialised' by it's new owner. The biggest reason for dogs to be PTS at the shelter is 'aggression due to lack of socilisation'. Often the dogs that are actually abused cope better than these undersocalised dogs becuase because even though they were not cared for they have experianced socalisation during the 3 -12 week period.
My Koolie Wiz, was isolated during the 'critical period' and I tell you it has been a bloody nightmare! Her and her litter mates were sold "from a farm" to Pets Paradise. They were about 4 weeks old when they arrived and spent the majority of their critical period in a glass cage in the basement of a shopping mall. Novel experiances? Nill.
Wiz is now four and over the last year has really started coping with the world, but for most of her life any thing new or different has been difficult to cope with. A motorbike on the footpath, a paper bag blown up agaist a fence, a windy day and worst of all children. She was absolutely terrified of kids and even now I would still never let a child pat her.
My other dog Floyd was a stray picked up off a busy Melbourne street at about 10 weeks old. His whole life to that point was 'novel experiances' and he is bullet proof, loves everything and everyone.
Socalisation is just so important in the development of a dog
Vix
Hi Again
I think that you are on the right track but must however be carefull in the comments about aggression, My dogs and the puppies that I breed are generally seen as agressive by people that don't know what they are looking at.
As a general rule a good working dog puppy that has natural instincts will from a very young age display these qualities.
A pup will often stand in front of another pup or older dog and try to block this dog by force. This should not be seen as agression as this is ultimately what we should all be striving to breed. We are after all breeding Working Dogs who should have these traits bred into them and this behaviour should NOT be roused on.
These pup's often end end up on farms that run eother Sheep or Cattle and are then required to show force when blocking a beast. So instead of shunning agression please first define what agression is good and what is bad.
Jack Wilja Koolies
Right on Jack.
In suburbia trainers now try to differentiate between true aggression and natural dominance.
Dogs protecting their young, possessions, property even their space are dominant.
Working dogs show this dominance when moved to show force on boxy sheep or rangy steers.
A good handler learns the difference, a good dog can be an excellent worker and a sociable companion as well, they don't have to be one or the other.
Though I know for practical reasons like theft that many graziers prefer their workers to be reserved and stand offish to put off anyone pinching them.
In suburbia trainers now try to differentiate between true aggression and natural dominance.
Dogs protecting their young, possessions, property even their space are dominant.
Working dogs show this dominance when moved to show force on boxy sheep or rangy steers.
A good handler learns the difference, a good dog can be an excellent worker and a sociable companion as well, they don't have to be one or the other.
Though I know for practical reasons like theft that many graziers prefer their workers to be reserved and stand offish to put off anyone pinching them.
I agree, Lawson and before him both Jemma and Tolkien would "herd" each other. Jemma is a heeling dog who will work the rear whilst Tolkien was a header who would use his body,speed and bark to manouvere. Lawson uses his body the turn Jemma away from her path..none of this was aggression but instinct and often used in play when chasing a ball. Lawson spent 20 minutes or more on Sat barking at other dogs...many handlers saw this as aggression, I knew it was'nt ( no fur raised, tail was wagging, ) he wanted to play/work.
Hi Again,
Just to respond to a dogs temperament.
I believe that a puppy that is kept with another hard dog will become harder than it would otherwise have itself and a puppy that is kept with a lazy dog will become lazy etc
I know of several farmers that also believe in this theory and have brought some pup's up with a german shepherds etc, it is strange to see such a pup a year later displaying the same protective traits that the shepherd has.
This of course has limitations but as a general rule of thumb works quite well.
All my dogs are protective as are any newcomers after a while.
I think mine are like they are because of the first Koolie I ever had, He was very hard and very protective. This has I think rubbed off and I'm often told that working dogs aren't supposed to be protective.
Jack Wilja Koolies
Just to respond to a dogs temperament.
I believe that a puppy that is kept with another hard dog will become harder than it would otherwise have itself and a puppy that is kept with a lazy dog will become lazy etc
I know of several farmers that also believe in this theory and have brought some pup's up with a german shepherds etc, it is strange to see such a pup a year later displaying the same protective traits that the shepherd has.
This of course has limitations but as a general rule of thumb works quite well.
All my dogs are protective as are any newcomers after a while.
I think mine are like they are because of the first Koolie I ever had, He was very hard and very protective. This has I think rubbed off and I'm often told that working dogs aren't supposed to be protective.
Jack Wilja Koolies
Here a few things that you might find helpful......
Socialization Tips and Puppy Training Pointers for New Puppy Owners
Socialization and puppy training are of utmost importance as puppyhood is the most important and critical time in your dog's development. What you do and do not do right now will affect your dog's behavior forever.
A properly socialized puppy is well adjusted and makes a good companion. It is neither frightened by nor aggressive towards anyone or anything it would normally meet in day to day living. An un-socialized dog is untrustworthy and an unwanted liability. They often become fear-biters. Often they like to fight with other dogs. They are difficult to train and are generally unpleasant to be around. Unsocialized dogs cannot adapt to new situations and a simple routine visit to the vet is a nightmare not only for the dog itself, but for everyone involved. Don't let this happen to you and your dog. Start socializing your new puppy NOW!
The Cornell University College of Veterinary Medicine agrees that the socialization period lasts up to about 12 weeks (3 months) of age. However, at 12 weeks, the puppy must continue socialization to refine its social skills. Socialization most easily occurs before the puppy is 3 months old. Any later than that and it becomes an excruciatingly difficult and time-consuming process that very few owners have the time, energy, money or patience to cope with.
Socialization Do's
Make sure that each of the following events are pleasant and non-threatening. If your puppy's first experience with something is painful and frightening, you will be defeating your purpose. In fact, you will be creating a phobia that will often last a lifetime. It's better to go too slow and assure your puppy is not frightened or injured than to rush and force your pup to meet new things and people.
* Invite friends over to meet your pup. Include men, women, youngsters, oldsters, different ethnic backgrounds, etc.
* Invite friendly, healthy, vaccinated dogs, puppies and even cats to your home to meet and play with your new puppy. Take your puppy to the homes of these pets, preferably with dog-friendly cats.
* Carry your pup to shopping centers, parks, school playgrounds, etc; places where there are crowds of people and plenty of activity.
* Take your puppy for short, frequent rides in the car. Stop the car and let your puppy watch the world go by through the window.
* Introduce your puppy to umbrellas, bags, boxes, the vacuum cleaner, etc. Encourage your puppy to explore and investigate his environment.
* Get your puppy accustomed to seeing different and unfamiliar objects by creating your own. Set a chair upside down. Lay the trash can (empty) on its side, set up the ironing board right-side up one day and upside down the next day.
* Introduce your puppy to new and various sounds. Loud, obnoxious sounds should be introduced from a distance and gradually brought closer.
* Accustom your puppy to being brushed, bathed, inspected, having its nails clipped, teeth and ears cleaned and all the routines of grooming and physical examination.
* Introduce your puppy to stairs, his own collar and leash. Introduce anything and everything you want your puppy to be comfortable with and around.
Socialization Don'ts
* Do not put your puppy on the ground where unknown animals have access. This is where your puppy can pick up diseases. Wait until your puppy's shots are completed. Do not let your pup socialize with dogs that appear sick or dogs that you don't know, that may not be vaccinated.
* Do not reward fearful behavior. In a well meaning attempt to sooth, encourage or calm the puppy when it appears frightened, we often unintentionally reward the behavior. It's normal for the puppy to show some signs of apprehension when confronting anything new and different.
* Do not allow the experience to be harmful, painful or excessively frightening. This can cause lifetime phobias in your dog.
* Do not force or rush your puppy. Let your puppy take things at his own pace. Your job is to provide the opportunity.
* Do not do too much at one time. Young puppies need a lot of sleep and tire quickly. It is much more productive to have frequent and very brief exposures than occasional prolonged exposures.
* DO NOT WAIT!! Every day that goes by is an opportunity of a lifetime that is lost forever. You can never get these days back. If socialization does not happen now, it never will.
Hope some of this information was helpful.....
Karolina Koolies
:grouhug2:
Socialization Tips and Puppy Training Pointers for New Puppy Owners
Socialization and puppy training are of utmost importance as puppyhood is the most important and critical time in your dog's development. What you do and do not do right now will affect your dog's behavior forever.
A properly socialized puppy is well adjusted and makes a good companion. It is neither frightened by nor aggressive towards anyone or anything it would normally meet in day to day living. An un-socialized dog is untrustworthy and an unwanted liability. They often become fear-biters. Often they like to fight with other dogs. They are difficult to train and are generally unpleasant to be around. Unsocialized dogs cannot adapt to new situations and a simple routine visit to the vet is a nightmare not only for the dog itself, but for everyone involved. Don't let this happen to you and your dog. Start socializing your new puppy NOW!
The Cornell University College of Veterinary Medicine agrees that the socialization period lasts up to about 12 weeks (3 months) of age. However, at 12 weeks, the puppy must continue socialization to refine its social skills. Socialization most easily occurs before the puppy is 3 months old. Any later than that and it becomes an excruciatingly difficult and time-consuming process that very few owners have the time, energy, money or patience to cope with.
Socialization Do's
Make sure that each of the following events are pleasant and non-threatening. If your puppy's first experience with something is painful and frightening, you will be defeating your purpose. In fact, you will be creating a phobia that will often last a lifetime. It's better to go too slow and assure your puppy is not frightened or injured than to rush and force your pup to meet new things and people.
* Invite friends over to meet your pup. Include men, women, youngsters, oldsters, different ethnic backgrounds, etc.
* Invite friendly, healthy, vaccinated dogs, puppies and even cats to your home to meet and play with your new puppy. Take your puppy to the homes of these pets, preferably with dog-friendly cats.
* Carry your pup to shopping centers, parks, school playgrounds, etc; places where there are crowds of people and plenty of activity.
* Take your puppy for short, frequent rides in the car. Stop the car and let your puppy watch the world go by through the window.
* Introduce your puppy to umbrellas, bags, boxes, the vacuum cleaner, etc. Encourage your puppy to explore and investigate his environment.
* Get your puppy accustomed to seeing different and unfamiliar objects by creating your own. Set a chair upside down. Lay the trash can (empty) on its side, set up the ironing board right-side up one day and upside down the next day.
* Introduce your puppy to new and various sounds. Loud, obnoxious sounds should be introduced from a distance and gradually brought closer.
* Accustom your puppy to being brushed, bathed, inspected, having its nails clipped, teeth and ears cleaned and all the routines of grooming and physical examination.
* Introduce your puppy to stairs, his own collar and leash. Introduce anything and everything you want your puppy to be comfortable with and around.
Socialization Don'ts
* Do not put your puppy on the ground where unknown animals have access. This is where your puppy can pick up diseases. Wait until your puppy's shots are completed. Do not let your pup socialize with dogs that appear sick or dogs that you don't know, that may not be vaccinated.
* Do not reward fearful behavior. In a well meaning attempt to sooth, encourage or calm the puppy when it appears frightened, we often unintentionally reward the behavior. It's normal for the puppy to show some signs of apprehension when confronting anything new and different.
* Do not allow the experience to be harmful, painful or excessively frightening. This can cause lifetime phobias in your dog.
* Do not force or rush your puppy. Let your puppy take things at his own pace. Your job is to provide the opportunity.
* Do not do too much at one time. Young puppies need a lot of sleep and tire quickly. It is much more productive to have frequent and very brief exposures than occasional prolonged exposures.
* DO NOT WAIT!! Every day that goes by is an opportunity of a lifetime that is lost forever. You can never get these days back. If socialization does not happen now, it never will.
Hope some of this information was helpful.....
Karolina Koolies
:grouhug2:
This is a "lo-fi" version of our main content. To view the full version with more information, formatting and images, please click here.